I leave the hotel early. An American lady approaches me on Calle del Arco to request I take a photo of her in front of the arch. How do I know she is American (before she even speaks)? Hundreds of minuscule visual queues bombard me all at once and my brain whirls around a couple of times before whispering to me behind raised hand (and with a slight lift of the eyebrow) - pssst, American! I wonder if I give off the same tells to people so they conclude Aussie before they hear my accent. Maybe not, I've been away a long time. I love playing that game in airports. Trying to guess from the walk, clothing, luggage and interactions where a person comes from. This lady is not much of a challenge - there are some dead give-aways. The abrupt way she approaches, thrusting the camera into my hands before even addressing me and startling me into taking a step backwards. The air of utter confidence with which she makes her request - totally certain of being obliged. The bouffant blond hair and ski jump nose. Big white teeth and with yards of healthy pink upper gum showing when she smiles. Knee length shorts and ankle length socks with white cross trainers. Fanny pack (or bum bag for those of us from down under). Well ok maybe I sketched in the fanny pack - I don't think she is actually wearing one but she should be. Of course I say yes and as she moves into her camera-ready pose she proceeds to give me a set of detailed directions for how I should frame the shot. All without loosing the hand-on-the-hip pose and gum-showing smile. After I snap a couple of different angles (work it baby, work it. She does) she checks my work. I guess it is OK cause with a flip of her hair and a smack of her (chewing) gum she tosses a "thanks hun" over her shoulder and is off. I don't know why, but the interaction makes me smile the rest of the way down the street. Maybe the sheer brashness and confident exuberance. I guess it's good that I have a small taste of it now - I'll be in Dallas in three days and everyone is like that there!
I go in search of coffee and then.... how about my luck! - a charming man in a fedora, and old-worldy type garb (crisp white-shirt, suspenders, pleated pants, and shop-keepers apron made from the hessian of a coffee bean sack) approaches me with a taster cup of coffee - offered with a flourish and a small bow. It is delicious. Mild and mellow and lightly flavored with cardamon. I happily follow behind him and he leads me to a tiny cafe just off Parque Central. I have never noticed it before. He introduces himself as Hymie (pronounced with the guttural H as in the german and hewbrew languages). I express an interest in the name (is it a typical Spanish name?) Oh yes his mother was jewish from Argentina and his father converted to Judaism when they married. He's originally from Argentina. He is so totally charming the way only Latin men seem to be.
-Hymie "when are you coming back to Antigua Layla?"
-Me "well as a matter of fact, I'll be back in two weeks"
-Hymie "you must promise to come back to my coffee shop then"
-Me "Certainly. The coffee is excellent"
-Hymie "Yes I want to know you better. I think I want to marry you".
-Me "Oh thats good. I've been looking for a husband"
-Hymie [slightly alarmed] "really?!"
-Me "oh yes. why do you think I'm traveling all around like this on my own. Im searching for a husband"
- Hymie [Getting the joke] "oh thats great Layla. When you come back we go dancing together"
- Me [getting the joke. He's maybe 5 feet tall and the top of his head just reaches my shoulder] "super Hymie. I'm gonna do that".
I ask Hymie for a recommendation for breakfast place and he walks with me a couple of blocks to a small cafe - also which I have never noticed before, shakes my hand and disappears down the street. Presumably to charm more visitors into trying his coffee. I enjoy a very nice Guatamalteco breakfast (tortillas, beans, eggs, chorizo, plantains, cheese) and more coffee which costs about $US4. Then hurry back to my hotel to get the shuttle to the airport. I'm going to Mexico City whoooohoooooooooo!!!!
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