Latin American Lifestyle and Art (LALA): Antigua, Guatemala

The bus trip to Antigua from Teguicigalpa takes me through San Pedro Sula, Copan and Guatemala City. Not very direct but the Hedman Alas bus is (as always) very comfortable. I doze, day dream, and watch the ever-changing and intensely central american landscape roll by: verdant jungle with groves of spindly coconut palms, starkly outlined volcanoes on the horizon, dusty clusters of cinder block houses with faded Pepsi signs hand-painted on the wall, barefoot black-haired children playing football in the dirt. I sketch out some ideas for LALA and write a couple of to-do lists. Start a book and but keep putting it down to let my mind wander. It’s very relaxing. I’m happily anticipating a return visit to one of my favorite towns. But this time, I remind myself, I’ve got a job to do :-)

I’m in Antigua to meet with a jeweler who specializes in jade. Jade is everywhere in Guatemala. It is one of only 10 or so places in the world where Jadite (as opposed to the softer nephrite jade) is found and the only place in which the rare lilac jade is found. You can buy it in high end jewelry stores and also in the markets. Like most things, there are huge variations in the quality of the stone and of the workmanship. My Guatemalan friend, Julio, is taking me to meet a stone mason and silversmith in San Felipe. I am really hopeful that I will see something special for LALA. Also I will visit all my favorite galleries to seek inspiration. Antigua is a melting pot for Central American art, pre-columbian and contemporary. Every time I visit I see something new, presented in a special and creative way.

Arriving finally at the Casa Florencia after the long travel is like a balm. The night air is fresh and cold. My suitcase rattles over cobblestone. The heavy wooden and metal-studded door opens to reveal a typical Antigua courtyard: mosaic paving, lush ferns, orchids and (always) a bubbling stone fountain. In my room the warm dry air is air is scented with incense and cedar. Smooth terracotta tile and exposed wooden beams. Austere cedar wood furnishings softened with colourful hand-woven blankets. Hot hot shower. Smooth cool sheets. SLEEEEEEP.

Desayano typico at Café Condessa. A bit touristic but the gorgeous courtyard and guatemateco breakfast always makes for a good start to the day. A side note on the Honduran/Guatemalan desayano typico (typical breakfast). Soft white-corn tortillas always freshly made just before serving. Scrambled eggs (Guatemalan variation has diced tomato and white onion), the ubiquitous black bean paste, sour cream, a square of moist salty white cheese, and sometimes chorizo or steak sautéed with garlic and cilantro (coriander). Done well, is a delicious breakfast which leaves your appetite satisfied until well into the afternoon. Anyway, on to check out my favorite galleries and stores. De Coloures for beaded jewelry. Textura, Loom Tree and Nativo for exquisite textiles (and incredible ideas for colour and presentation). Antigua Galeria de Arte for paintings (lingering over the new Sergio Alvarado exhibition. Can I afford to buy one more for myself?). Panini for lunch on the sun-drenched roof terrace at Tartines. Then, before I meet Julio, I have time for a quick visit to Jade Imperio Maya. My favorite jewelry store and by far the best jade jewelry in the city. Moises, the most excellent Sales Manager, recongises me immediately. This is thanks to Dad’s energetic negotiating during a jewelry purchase when we travelled there together well over a year ago. “I will not soon forget your father” Moises says with a tight smile. The poor man is scarred for life but I am happy that he remembers me and I take advantage to get a quick refresher course on Jade. I want some benchmarks to compare what I will see later in the afternoon in san Filipe.

I meet Julio in the Parque Central by the fountain (4 beautifully carved stone mermaids are grasping their breasts as jets of water shoot out from between their fingers. Fabulous!). The jacaranda trees are blooming and there is a carpet of purple petals on the ground. Julio is big smiles and warm greetings (as always) As we go by Tuk tuk he fills me in on his children (6!) and job (he works with NGO group in the capacity of translator and guide). He tells me his hopes that I will be happy with the jewelry of his friend. We arrive small village of SanFilipe wth its vibrant yellow Spanish church. Antonio and his wife Nidia are waiting to greet us and have a lovely selection of jade and silver jewelry. I would love to wear any of it. However I feel ill-quipped to evaluate it as a business purchase – I know what I like but am no expert on gemology. I try to view the jade objectively on the qualities that Moises has schooled me in. Colour? Lilac is the most rare followed by a bright green. Translucency? The most valuable jade allows light to pass through it. Consistency and cleanliness? The stone should be a consistent colour with no inclusions or stains. So far so good! The stones look great and to my amateur eye appear well cut. I like Antonio and Nidia and they agree to work some of my customizations into the design. We decide to go forward with a small range of 10 pieces. I am excited. My first jewelry range! I am leaving in the morning for Mexico but will be back in a week. They think the order can be ready by then.

Hmm I don’t think I’m going to share any jewelry photos at this time. It is too special and I want it to be a big surprise! Meanwile, enjoy some pictures of the beautiful town of Antigua. Hasta luego!